Miyajima

Discovering Miyajima

Officially named Itsukushima, but universally known as Miyajima — “shrine island” — this small, mountainous island in Hiroshima Bay has been considered one of Japan’s three most scenic views (Nihon Sankei) since the 17th century. The distinction is well earned. A vermillion Shinto shrine extends over the tidal flats on wooden stilts, its grand torii gate rising from the sea as if placed there by the gods themselves, while behind it a primeval forest climbs steeply to the granite peak of Mt. Misen. Sacred deer roam freely between the shrine grounds and the narrow shopping streets. The scent of grilled oysters and fresh-baked momiji manju drifts through the sea air. Few places in Japan compress so much beauty, spirituality, and culinary pleasure into such a compact space.

The island’s sacred status dates back to at least the 6th century, when Itsukushima Shrine was first established to honor the three daughters of the Shinto storm god Susanoo. The entire island was considered so holy that commoners were forbidden to set foot on it for centuries — the shrine was built over water so that worshippers could approach by boat without touching sacred ground. Even today, no births or deaths are permitted on the island (expectant mothers and the terminally ill are traditionally ferried to the mainland), and no trees may be felled within the shrine’s domain. This reverence has preserved Miyajima’s forests in a virtually untouched state, creating a living ecological archive alongside the cultural one. The island and its shrine complex were designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996.

Reaching Miyajima takes roughly an hour from central Hiroshima — the JR Sanyo Line runs to Miyajimaguchi Station in 25 minutes, followed by a 10-minute ferry crossing (both covered by the JR Pass). Most visitors treat the island as a half-day or full-day trip from Hiroshima, pairing it with the Peace Memorial Park for one of the most powerful two-destination days in all of Japanese travel. But those who stay overnight discover a different island entirely — one that empties of day-trippers by late afternoon and reveals its deeper character in the golden light of sunset and the stillness of dawn. For travelers building a broader western Japan itinerary, see the planning guide for route suggestions combining Miyajima with Hiroshima, Osaka, and Kyoto.

Itsukushima Shrine & the Torii Gate

The great torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine is one of the most recognizable images in Japan — a 16.6-meter-tall, four-legged camphor wood structure standing in the tidal flats approximately 200 meters offshore from the shrine. The current gate, built in 1875, is the eighth iteration since the original was erected in the 12th century. It is not buried in the seabed but rather stands under its own weight — the hollow upper beam is filled with approximately seven tons of stones for ballast, and the gate’s legs rest on the sandy bottom, held in place by gravity alone. This engineering elegance has allowed the structure to withstand typhoons, earthquakes, and the constant assault of saltwater for nearly 150 years.

The gate’s appearance changes dramatically with the tides. At high tide, the sea rises around the base of the pillars and extends beneath the shrine buildings themselves, creating the famous illusion that the entire complex floats on the water’s surface. The vermillion columns reflecting in the calm water against a backdrop of forested mountains is the quintessential Miyajima photograph. At low tide — which exposes the sandy flats for several hours — visitors can walk out to the base of the gate and stand beneath its massive crossbeam, appreciating the sheer scale of the structure in a way that is impossible from the shore. Tide tables are posted at the ferry terminal and at the shrine entrance; planning a visit that catches both high and low tide (roughly six hours apart) allows for both experiences in a single day.

The shrine itself, founded in 593 and rebuilt in its current form by the powerful warlord Taira no Kiyomori in 1168, is a masterwork of Heian-period Shinden-zukuri architecture. Connected corridors, stages, and prayer halls extend over the water on wooden pilings, painted in the same vivid vermillion as the torii gate. The Honden (main hall), Haiden (prayer hall), and the elevated Noh stage — one of the only Noh stages in Japan built over water — form a complex that appears to change character with every tidal shift. Entry to the shrine is ¥300 ($2), and the elevated corridors offer framed views of the torii gate that feel almost choreographed by the original architects. After dark, the gate and shrine are illuminated until 11 PM, and the reflections in still water at high tide create some of the most atmospheric nighttime scenery in Japan — a compelling reason to stay overnight on the island.

Mt. Misen & Momijidani Park

Behind the shrine, the island rises steeply to the granite summit of Mt. Misen at 535 meters — the highest point on Miyajima and a sacred mountain that has drawn pilgrims since the 9th century, when the Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi (Kukai) is said to have meditated here and lit an eternal flame that has burned continuously for over 1,200 years. That flame is still maintained in the Reikado Hall near the summit, and visitors can see the iron kettle that has boiled water over it without interruption since the Heian period.

Three hiking trails ascend from different starting points to the summit. The Momijidani Course (approximately 2.5 km, 90 minutes up) is the most popular, beginning at Momijidani Park and climbing through a forest of Japanese maples, camphor trees, and ancient cedars. The Daisho-in Course starts near Daisho-in Temple and passes through dense forest with ocean glimpses. The Omoto Course is the quietest and steepest. All three trails are well-maintained but involve sustained uphill walking on stone steps and exposed roots — sturdy footwear and water are essential, as there are no vending machines on the mountain.

For those who prefer to save their legs, the Mt. Misen Ropeway (¥1,840 / $12 round trip) carries passengers in two stages from Momijidani Park to Shishi-iwa Station, where a 30-minute walk on a paved path leads to the summit observatory. The ropeway ride itself is spectacular — the gondola glides over a canopy of primeval forest with panoramic views of the Inland Sea and its scattered islands expanding with every meter of elevation. From the summit, the 360-degree panorama encompasses the Inland Sea’s island-dotted expanse, the coastline of Hiroshima Prefecture, and on clear days, the mountains of Shikoku across the water. Kobo Daishi reportedly declared this view the most beautiful he had ever seen — a claim that still holds weight.

Momijidani Park, at the base of the ropeway and the start of the main hiking trail, is a tranquil maple garden bisected by a clear stream. The park’s approximately 700 Japanese maples make it one of the premier autumn foliage destinations in western Japan, with peak color typically arriving in mid-to-late November. In spring, the fresh green of the new maple leaves creates a luminous canopy above the stone paths. Sacred deer wander through the park year-round, resting among the roots of ancient trees — a quieter alternative to the more crowded deer encounters near the ferry terminal.

What to Eat on Miyajima

Miyajima’s food scene is compact but exceptional, built around three specialties that have become synonymous with the island. The main shopping street — Omotesando — runs from the ferry terminal toward the shrine and concentrates virtually all of the island’s restaurants and food stalls in a single atmospheric corridor.

Grilled oysters (kaki) are the headliner. Miyajima sits in Hiroshima Bay, Japan’s largest oyster-producing region, and the waters surrounding the island yield plump, briny specimens that are grilled over charcoal at stalls along the shopping street. A plate of two to three grilled oysters runs ¥200-500 ($1.30-3.30) and can be eaten standing at the counter, shell in hand, watching the grill master tend the fire. Oyster season runs from October through March, with peak flavor in January and February, though farmed oysters are available year-round at some restaurants.

Momiji manju — small cakes shaped like Japanese maple leaves and filled with sweet red bean paste, custard, chocolate, matcha, or cheese — are Miyajima’s signature confection and the island’s most popular souvenir. Bakeries along Omotesando produce them continuously, and the warm, fresh cakes (¥100-200 / $0.70-1.30 each) are far superior to the packaged versions sold at Hiroshima Station. Several stalls have popularized age-momiji — deep-fried momiji manju served on a stick — which transforms the gentle sweetness of the original into a crispy, caramelized indulgence.

Anago-meshi (conger eel rice) is the island’s signature sit-down meal. Unlike the freshwater unagi that dominates eel cuisine elsewhere in Japan, Miyajima’s conger eel is saltwater-caught and has a lighter, more delicate flavor. The eel is grilled over charcoal and served over a bed of seasoned rice in a lacquered box. Ueno, operating since 1901, is the most famous anago restaurant on the island, with lunchtime queues that routinely stretch down the street — arrive before 11 AM or expect a 30-to-60-minute wait. A full anago-meshi set costs ¥1,500-2,500 ($10-17) depending on the restaurant and portion size.